CURLYTEA
Creammaker ANIO
INCI: Glyceryl oleate citrate, caprylic/capric triglyceride
What: emulsifier
Charge: anionic
HLB: 13
pH range: 4 – 9
Solubility: Disperse in oil phase
Usage rate suggestions: 2-4% for oil-in-water emulsion
Creammaker ANIO has been a good go-to liquid emulsifier. It’s PEG-free and helps to create and stabilize emulsions even at room temperature. For example, if you’re making a hair milk – which tends to have more liquid viscosity – I would suggest trying this emulsifier first. Wax-based emulsifiers could increase the viscosity (but not it all cases) making your final “hair milk” too thick.
According to makingcosmetics.com, you should be able to use this emulsifier with an oil (lipid) content as high as 40%. I don’t tend to use that much oil with this type of emulsifer though so I can’t comment on this claim. It’s also supposed to be adept at emulsifying polar and non-polar oils.(2)
Polar oils have heteroatoms which result in “a dipole moment”(1), whatever that means. Just remember that polar oils are things like triglycerides (like caprylic/capric triglycerides) and esters (like Alkyl Esters). Fatty alcohols (like cetyl) also fall into this category.
Nonpolar oils don’t have an “electronegative element like oxygen”(1). These are the hydrocarbons (like dimethicone, cyclomethicone and mineral oil).
Knowing whether an oil or ingredient is polar or nonpolar can help you make a better decision as to which emuslfier to use. Since Creammaker ANIO works well with either version, you should be fine. As I say, always test, test, and test again.
Add Creammaker ANIO to the other oil-soluble ingredients in your recipe first. Since you can use Creammaker ANIO in hot or cold process emulsions, you don’t have to heat this ingredient before it begins to emulsify.
I used Creammaker ANIO to make the cold-emulsion recipe “Baobab Hair Milk”. It was the only emulsifier used (“Behentrimonium chloride” is a conditioning agent and is not the same as BTMS-25 or BTMS-50).
In the Baobab Hair Milk recipe, I added Creammaker ANIO to the rest of the oil-soluble ingredients (except fragrance and preservative as is my habit). The oils (baobab, etc) were used at somewhere around 14%. I didn’t have to heat the mix for 25 minutes and there weren’t any separation issues (as least none before I was able to fully use the product up in less than 2 months).
Makingcosmetics.com recommends using Creammaker ANIO if you want to make a sprayable lotion or some other mix for which you absolutely don’t want a thick cream. Maybe for those with sensitive skin, this emulsifier can create a good liquid, oil-free moisturizer? Maybe a facial milk? Experiment with it!
You may see Creammaker ANIO called any of the following online:
# Dracorin® GOC
# Creammaker ANIO
# Glyceryl oleate citrate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride
Related:
1 CosmeticsAndToiletries.com
2 MakingCosmetics.com
I was thinking about using 0.5% of btms then the cream maker anio to see if I will end up having a more sprayable product.
What is your thought on that?
If you want a more sprayable stable product, you should probably use something like Motonov L instead of BTMS. From my testing, it doesn’t thicken the viscosity all that much and you can make low viscosity emulsions with it. The problem with MOntanov L is that it’s not a conditioner where BTMS is. IF you want to have a conditioniong effect along with low viscosity, you can try using Montanov L with 0.25% centrimonium chloride or 0.5% polyquaternium 7.
Also for a liquid viscosity emulsion, you can try using the finicky Sepiplus 400. But it’s a little tricky. You add a small amount of sepiplus 400 to the oils and mix. Then you have to add the water SLOWLY a little at a time or else the emulsion could fail over the next few days. Sepiplus makes it possible to produce a very, very liquid emulsion (depending on the percent) but if you dump all the water into the oil at once, it could fail quickly.