Olive Leaf and Matcha AHA Cream Gel
makes approx 200 grams (fits 8oz jar)
PHASE A
132.25 grams Purified/Distilled water
2 grams Gluconolactone SB (1%)
PHASE B
6.5 grams Sepinov EMT 10
PHASE C
10 grams Naturesilk (5%)
28.5 grams Glycolic Acid 70% solution (14.25%)
PHASE D
4 grams Sodium PCA (2%)
1 gram Matcha Powder (0.5%)
1 grams Purified water (0.5%)
PHASE E
4 grams Natrasil [silicone replacement] (2%)
4 grams Hydrolyzed Quinoa (2%)
4 grams Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (2%)
0.75 grams Olive Leaf Extract (about 40 drops)
2 grams Olive Squalane (1%)
VIDEO
INSTRUCTIONS
In Vessel 1
#Add Phase A to vessel #1
#Heat for 3-5 minutes to fully dissolve Gluconolactone SB
#Add Phase B ingredient
#Use stick blender to form a thick gel
In Vessel 2
#Add Phase C to vessel #2
Continue…
#Pour the contents in Vessel 2 (Phase C) into Vessel 1 (Phase A+B)
#Stir well.
Continue…
#Add each PHASE E ingredient to the gel one at a time
#Stir well after each addition. (Don’t use a stick blender or else you may experience viscosity loss.)
#Pour into final jar
MY NOTES
#AHA and matcha goodness! This Olive Leaf and Matcha Cream Gel uses glycolic acid at 10%. If that’s too much for you, please reformulate the recipe.
#Glycolic acid should be handled with extreme care.
#Make sure to have a way to test the pH. For glycolic acid to work effectively, it must have a pH somewhere in the range of 3 to 3.5. Do not neutralize this mix!
#Natrasil is a natural alternative to the petroleum based ‘-cones’ and ‘-xanes’
#If you don’t have matcha powder, you can turn your water portion into green tea. From there, you can continue with the rest of the recipe to form the gel.
#The Olive Leaf and Matcha Cream Gel is being stored in an airtight Infinity Jar for extra protection. You don’t have to do this though.
Can you use this as a retwist gel for locs?
No. This is for the skin only.
Okay
Oops – I didn’t realize Gluconolactone is a preservative. Can I add Optiphen+ or Germaben II at the end instead?
You can use whatever preservative you’re most comfortable with. Make sure it works with the other ingredients in the recipe though. Some preservatives only work at certain pH ranges. Glycolic acid is very acidic. From what I know, Optiphen Plus works well in acidic recipes below 6, but make sure it can work in very low pH. The targeted pH for this formula is between 3 and 3.5 where Glycolic acid works best. For Fruit Acid Complex, you’ll have to see what the pH range is.