BTMS-25: A Tale of Two Batches

Uh, why-come this BTMS don't work no-mo?!  LOL!  What I really mean to say is that there's a definitely difference with the look and feel of two different batches of BTMS I purchased about a year apart from the same wholesaler.

As many of you know, I buy a number of my DIY ingredients from lotioncrafter.com.  One of those ingredients is BTMS-25 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol).

BTMS is a self-emulsifying ingredient which mixes your oils and waters/aloe vera into a nice cream.  It leaves a nice, soft conditioned feeling in the hair and a almost powdery feeling on the skin.

I loved BTMS-25 for its ability to emulsify damn near every diy mix I've ever made with it.  I purchased one batch from lotioncrafter.com over a year ago.  I didn't have any issues… at all… with the first batch of BTMS I got from lotioncrafter.com.

It comes in pastilles (looks like pellets that have been flattened on one side) which makes it very easy to pour or scoop.  The pastilles of the 1st batch were a super white, milky color.  

I was going through the 1st batch quickly, so I ordered another batch over a year later and I didn't want to wait until I had completely ran out.  Cut to my 2nd batch.  After purchasing, I was excited because I wouldn't have to worry about not having BTMS on hand.

However, the first thing I noticed about the 2nd batch was that the little pastilles were a very light, yellowish color.  It just looked different. 

At the time, I didn't think anything about it because I assumed it would still feel and work the same.

I put the 2nd batch to the side and began testing other emulsifiers (ECOMulse and OliveM 1000) for a while.  It wasn't until the past few months or so that I really got back into using BTMS-25.

For the last 4 completely different BTMS-based recipes I've been testing, this new batch of BTMS-25 doesn't feel like the first batch.  This 2nd batch doesn't feel nearly as good on the hair as the first. It just feels kinda… meh.  And I'm not used to… "meh"… when it comes to BTMS-25.   

Just to be sure, I even tested the exact same recipe I made using the 1st batch with the 2nd batch of BTMS-25.  There was a noticeable difference between the way it felt on my hair AND on my skin.

Notice in the short video below (excuse the poor lighting),  I hope you can see the slight difference between the 1st batch (on the left) and the 2nd batch (on the right).

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Aside from that, BTMS usually works very well at low percentages.

NOTE: Remember arcamp83's famous BTMS detangling leave-in recipe. She uses 2 tsp of BTMS and 2 tsp of Cetyl. That's a low percentage (about 2-2.5%).  I've made that recipe more than once and it was great….with the 1st batch of BTMS-25.

This weekend, I tested out what was going to be a great recipe with Kukui oil and Macadamia nut oils.  I used the 2nd batch of BTMS-25 at 5%.  No Citric acid.  No aloe vera.  1/2 tsp of Pectin was used, so maybe that was an issue?  Either way, I've never had it behave like that.

However, the emulsion actually started to separate after a few hours.  Yall know I use a scale now so I know for sure what I've used and how much of it I've used. This was the FIRST mix with BTMS-25 I've ever had which started to fail.

I ultimately saved it with Guar Gum (good ole guar gum!) which actually gave it a little slip too.  Either way, I'm starting to be more and more disappointed with this 2nd batch.

For a long while,  BTMS-25 was on my Holy Grail list of ingredients for its superior conditioning properties.  But… uh… with this 2nd batch from lotioncrafter.com… it's just not cutting it for me. And I'm not quite sure why.  

And yes, they both had identical INCI names.  I check the INCI names on everything I get to make sure it's what I ordered.

I don't know if the manufacturer lotioncrafter.com use has changed their product. Or if lotioncrafter.com changed the supplier of where they got it. 

Maybe the 1st batch was mislabeled and what I got was its more conditioning big brother called BTMS-50?  Maybe the 2nd batch was mislabeled and what I got was some regular E-wax??  I doubt it, though.

Either way, something is/was off.  I just want to use whatever BTMS I had the first time because that one performed in an outstanding manner.

Have you guys had any issues with BTMS whether it be BTMS-25 or BTMS-50?

@curlyteaconsult